Chabimura and Ubiquitous Dr Pritam
Biswanath Bhattacharya
February 22, 2024, 09:10:06
My Friend Kazi Shah Alam and his two friends, poet Golam Kabir and Engineer Muhammad Hossein, came from Bangladesh on the 16th of February 2024, only to explore the intrinsic beauty of veiled Romantic Tripura.
Friendship is the hardest thing in the world to explain. It's not something you learn in school. But if you haven't learned the meaning of friendship, you haven't learned anything.
But I can proudly say that I have learnt the meaning of life. I have learned the value of friendship, but Kazi Shah Alam has known better than I have. To him, I am one of his limbs.
Golam Kabir came from London, UK, only to meet his Facebook Rehana Begum, residing in an obscure village, Grantali, near Melaghar of Sonamura subdivision. They have never met each other in their lives. Unbelievable in these days of a realistic world. Strange are the ways of life. Rehana is also a poetess of eminence. I shall deal with her separately. She is like a fully bloom flower in the grass. Where flower blooms, there is hope! She was trying to bloom like a flower to fill the world with the fragrance of joy!
When Shah Alam came to Tripura in December 2023, and we could not make it to Chabimura. However, my younger brother, Dr Ashok Sinha, the president of the Tripura State Planning Board and who is regarded as one of the topmost intellectuals of Tripura, procured tickets for us at Maharani. But in the meantime, we were at Amarpur.
This time, I told my protégé, Dr Pritam Sarkar, one of the topmost echelons of the Animal Resource Development Department, on the 14th itself to procure four tickets; he assured me not to worry; everything would be done. He arranged tickets for 17th February 2024 and deputed two associates, Amrit Datta and Pritam Das, to take care of us . He also set our lunch in the local Baishakhi Hotel, the best Hotel in Amarpur.
Now, when we reached Chabimura, we found a speed boat ready for four of us. Dr Pritam worked with me in 2004-06 but we never lost contact with each other. I am definite at my beckoning he will come from the furthest point of the world to help me Amrit and Pritam also boarded the boat so that we miss nothing of Chabimura.
Chabimura is famous for its panels of rock carvings on the steep mountain wall on theof Gomati. There are huge images carved of Shiva, Vishnu, Kartika, Mahisasur Mardini Durga and other Gods and goddesses. These images date back to 15th-16th centuries AD. Chabimura is 30 km away from Udaipur and 12 km from Amarpur Sub-Division. These beautiful images are curved with a lot of talent on the rocky faces of Devtamura, which is steep at 90 degrees. The hill ranges are covered with thick jungles, and one can reach this abode of gods only after trekking through these jungles. The road leading to the river bank where the rock cut images exist is a treat to the eye. The area is also an eco-tourism centre.
The first panel is just on the other side of the bank. It measures 10.3 m in (height) is spread over an area of 28 m (in length) and is south-facing. The area to the right of the panel extends up to 60 m, where some other images exist. At present some of the images are lost by sliding of rock panels.
The 2nd image is that of Mahishasuramardini, which is about one km away from the 1st panel and is curved at a height of 10 meters from the river bed. The local tribe worshipped it as CHAKRAK-MA. This is one of the largest reliefs of Goddess present in the country, making it unique. The image has a height of 10.70 meters and a width of 7.70 meters. The face is depicted as round with dishevelled hair in a number of hairlocks. She is ten-armed and holds weapons in all nine arms except the lower, which holds the hair of the demon king. The weapons are primarily indistinct due to erosion and floral growth.
The Gomti River flows through the gorge within the steep rocky walls on both sides. On looking carefully, we saw a few rock carvings on the vertical faces of the mountains. Why were they there? Who made such rock carvings on the mountain faces? All these questions flocked to our minds, taking me to some distant past. But I was jolted down to the present again as the engine of our motorboat roared, taking us along the stream. There are a few more surprises in store for us at Chabimura or Chabimura
We had not known about Chabimura so much until we reached Chabimura. We saw about the place in an advertisement by Tripura Tourism. I dare say that they did an excellent job because we looked at the place and were amazed; however, Chabimura won hands down; a few rock carvings had been found on the banks of the Gomati River in Tripura. The place known as Chabimura is a rare combination of history and natural beauty. A boat ride on the Gomati River through the gorge is surreal. The entire experience cannot be just explained in simple words. And then there are the rock carvings on the mountain faces. The boat would take you downstream until you reach the colossal panel with a rock-cut image of Goddess Durga in her fierce Mahisasur Mardini Avatar, locally known as Devi Chakrama.
The boat journey feels as if you are travelling through the Amazon rainforest. Chabimura literally means mountain of pictures. The place is also known as Devtamura (meaning mountain peak of Gods). Chabimura is just as isolated and mysterious as that of Unakoti. At least, Unakoti has several stories and legends to fall back to. But Chabimura has no specific history, not even any legends and myths. The place is still an enigma. And this is what increases the charm of the place manifold.
Located deep in the forest, there are a few rock-cut panels of deities of Hindu pantheons. These are carved out at the steep rocky face of the cliff that descends directly into the river bed some 150 feet below. This archaeological wonder seems to be just in the middle of nowhere. There are no people around, only the chirping sounds of birds and the rustling of leaves.
There are rock carvings on vertical mountain faces made of light-yellow sandstone. There are a total of 4 panels of rock-cut sculptures on the mountain walls. Carvings on the Debtamura and Chabimura hill ranges were created by artists in the eighth century. The first panel that we noticed at the start of our journey is the panel consisting of the images of Pancha Devata. The panel measures about 9m x 5m. This panel consists of images of Shiva, Vishnu, Kartikeya, Ganesha and Devi Shakti with their proper vahanas according to Hindu mythology.
Further downstream, there is another smaller panel showing a procession of a queen in a palanquin followed by several persons. This group consists of 37 male and female figures along with their leader. The group seems to be engaged in music and dance and holding various musical instruments.
A little further away, about 500 m downstream, there is another panel containing an image of Brishabahana Shiva holding Damru in his hand. Finally, we arrive at the panel having the 13-metre-high image of Goddess Durga. Here the Goddess is known as Devi Chakrama. She has ten hands. Her right leg is firmly placed on the buffalo demon Mahisasur, while the left leg rests on the back of the lion. The hair of the Goddess is replaced by a number of snakes erecting from her head. It is something like that of Medusa.
A casual glimpse at these images on the rocks might suggest the worship of some Tantric cult, not something we had seen in Unakoti or found in Pilak.
All these beautiful images have been carved with great dexterity on the rocky faces of the hills, which are almost 90 degrees steep. I wonder how the artists have managed to complete this feat!
After a weird bend in the river course, there is a cave on the left side. Jamatia legend states that King Chichingfa had stashed all his treasures in large wooden chests inside the cave. The treasure was then guarded by a gigantic python.
The cave is an interesting place. There is a waterfall inside the cave, and the tourists visit only up to that point. The locals believe that beyond that, the cave is protected and should not be entered. In fact, our boatman told us that a few people had tried entering deep inside the cave but were unable to do so.
Another lore says that the Jamatia people were scared away by a huge cobra and left the region, making it deserted. However, Hada Akra, a religious society of the Jamatias, discarded this lore. They believe that the Jamitia left the region because of severe drought conditions. Actually, the kingdom of King Chichingfa was at Burtiari located west of the region.
There is another story about the place told us by Amrit and Prtiam. It is the legend of Princess Hirabati, the daughter of King Chichingfa. Once upon a time, a white elephant abducted Princess Hirabati (I don’t know how that happened!). Two brothers, Rangia and Fateh, took it upon themselves to rescue the princess. They fought fiercely with the elephant at Tirthamukh and rescued the princess. King Chichingfa, very pleased with the brothers, quite predictably gave Hirabati the hand in marriage with Fateh. We think the white elephant was perhaps some metaphor used to depict a certain person.
The story does not end here. The King also informed the 2 brothers about his huge treasure being hidden at the cave and gave them hints about the place. But he strictly warned them that they had to return back from the cave before evening. Otherwise, they would incur the wrath of Devi Chakrama.
In fact , even now, no one is allowed to go near the cave after dusk. The locals believe in the wrath of Devi Chakrama. All these stories are good to hear. They add an aura of mystery to the places. Whether you believe it or not, is up to you!
Chabimura rock carvings are ancient masterpieces that need to be preserved. Now the four panels on the rock faces lie uncared for. I have a feeling if proper excavations are made, more such panels can be found. But the present ones should be taken care of. Chabimura or Debtamura has a huge potential for both Indian and international tourists. We only wish the government was more proactive in protecting our heritage and history.
Amrit and Pritam were busy taking video shots and narrating all about Chabimura; Shah Alam was so enamoured that he requested both of them to take us to Narikel Kunja and Thirtha Mukh or Gomukh when he made his next journey.
This world is a wonderland full of wonderful people like Dr Pritam Sarkar, Amrit or Pritam Das! You shall have to have the eyes to find them out.
There is a place like no place on earth. A land full of wonder, mystery, and danger. Some say to survive it, you need to be as mad as a hatter. Which, luckily, we are!
I must also say that what first struck me was that the road from Udaipur to Amarpur must be wider and sturdier. So goes my observation on the road from Amarpur to Chabimura, The street is so narrow. Since the Government of Tripura is announcing Chabimura as the heritage and pride of Tripura, it is essential for the Government to provide more facilities. The first is the wide road and the congenial atmosphere at the ticket counter; some unprofessional boys are employed there. There is a large queue of the populace, and nobody is there to take care of them. A veritable pandemonium!
I believe in the principle of Henry Ford: "Don't find fault, find a remedy: anyone can complain.". There are lots of things to complain about, but what is needed to find out the remedy. I request Dr Ashok Sinha to find the remedy; I am ready to offer my help pro bono.
We returned to Agartala. While returning, Shah Alam amused us by singing various songs in his sonorous voice. It was a happy experience and memorable experience; I wished that Ali Imam Mazumdar, the former cabinet secretary of Bangladesh and Krishna, had been with us. Since Ali Imam, our childhood friend too, held the topmost bureaucratic position in Bangladesh ( he was cabinet Secretary of Bangladesh ) and has access to various forums spanning the globe, he could have projected Tripura, my dreamland, in the eyes of the world.
The visit of Shah Alam, Poet Golam Kabir and Muhammad Hossein - they are three comrades, in fact, of Eric Maria Remarque, has the added effect of rejuvenating my wife. I have never seen my ailing wife so triumphant and bursting with laughter. In the sweetness of friendship, let there be laughter and sharing of pleasures. A day without laughter is a day wasted. Laughter is the sun that drives winter from the human face, And friendship is the sweetest of all things !!!
(Tripurainfo)